Formulation and Evaluation of a Polyherbal Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Using Ritha, Shikakai, And Amla Extracts

Dandruff

Dandruff is a major cosmetic problem that poses very great public health concern both in developed and developing countries. No population in any geographical region would have passed through freely without being affected by dandruff at some stage in their life. The word dandruff is of Anglo-Saxon origin, a combination of „tan? meaning „tetter? and „drof? meaning „dirty? (Ranganathan and Mukhopadhyay, 2010). Dandruff is a chronic scalp condition characterized by scaling, itching and redness of the scalp. It occurs when scalp sheds epidermal cells in large clumps. The skin of scalp renews itself about once a month. Usually, scalp sheds dead cells in nearly invisible way, but sometimes cell turnover becomes unusually rapid and dead cells are shed as visible flakes called dandruff.  Dandruff is a widespread dermatological disorder that has transcended cosmetic concern and emerged as a public health issue globally. It is characterized by the excessive shedding of dead skin from the scalp, often accompanied by itching and inflammation. Despite not being a life-threatening condition, dandruff significantly affects the quality of life due to its recurrent nature and visibility, impacting self-esteem and social interactions. Approximately 50% of the global population suffers from dandruff at some point in their lives, indicating its ubiquitous prevalence and the urgent need for effective therapeutic strategies [1].

The term “dandruff” has Anglo-Saxon origins—'tan' meaning 'tetter' and 'drof' signifying 'dirty'—reflecting the historical perception of the condition as unhygienic or unpleasant [2]. However, contemporary dermatology has demonstrated that dandruff results from complex physiological and microbial interactions, rather than mere negligence of hygiene. The condition is now understood to be a multifactorial scalp disorder resulting from hyperproliferation and abnormal keratinization of the scalp epidermis, combined with microbial colonization—particularly by Malassezia species [3].

Etiology and Pathophysiology

The scalp typically undergoes a regenerative cycle every 28 days, wherein keratinocytes proliferate and differentiate from the basal layer to the stratum corneum. Under normal conditions, this process results in the unnoticeable shedding of dead cells. However, in dandruff, this cycle is disrupted and accelerated—reducing to around 7–21 days—resulting in the formation of visible clumps of corneocytes [4]. Concurrently, lipid-rich sebum secretions create an ideal milieu for lipophilic yeasts like Malassezia furfur, which hydrolyze triglycerides into irritating fatty acids, further exacerbating inflammation and flaking [5]. Dandruff is broadly categorized into two clinical types: dry (Pityriasis simplex) and oily (Pityriasis steatoides). Dry dandruff is characterized by small, white or greyish scales scattered across the scalp without associated inflammation or sebum overproduction. Conversely, oily dandruff often presents as yellowish, greasy flakes accompanied by seborrheic dermatitis, inflammation, and potential hair fall [6]. The condition commonly manifests during puberty and adolescence, with men being more susceptible due to androgen-mediated sebum secretion [7].

Conventional Management and Limitations

Conventional anti-dandruff shampoos rely predominantly on synthetic antifungal agents such as zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, ketoconazole, and coal tar derivatives. While these agents exhibit antifungal efficacy, their prolonged use has been associated with adverse effects such as skin irritation, toxicity, resistance development, and disruption of the scalp’s natural microbiota [8,9]. Furthermore, consumer preference has gradually shifted toward safer, natural, and eco-friendly alternatives due to increasing awareness of the potential health hazards of synthetic formulations. This paradigm shift toward botanical therapeutics has fueled interest in herbal products for scalp care. Herbal formulations, derived from traditional medicine systems like Ayurveda and Siddha, offer a promising alternative due to their multifaceted biological activities—antifungal, anti-inflammatory, keratolytic, and antioxidant—without the synthetic additives that often contribute to adverse effects [10]. Moreover, they are biodegradable, sustainable, and compatible with the skin’s natural physiology.

Role of Phytotherapeutics in Scalp Disorders

Numerous plant-derived compounds have been traditionally used in managing dandruff and hair disorders. These botanicals contain bioactive constituents like saponins, flavonoids, tannins, terpenoids, alkaloids, and essential oils that contribute to their therapeutic efficacy. For instance, Acacia concinna (Shikakai), Sapindus mukorossi (Reetha), and Phyllanthus emblica (Amla) have been extensively documented for their cleansing, antifungal, and scalp-nourishing properties [11-13]. Shikakai, known for its high saponin content, acts as a natural surfactant that cleanses the scalp without stripping natural oils. Its antifungal activity is attributed to polyphenolic compounds that inhibit Malassezia spp. and promote scalp health. Additionally, it strengthens hair roots and prevents breakage through the supply of vitamins A, C, D, E, and K [14]. Similarly, Reetha exhibits natural foaming and antimicrobial properties, offering a non-toxic alternative to synthetic surfactants. Its phytochemical profile includes triterpenoids and saponins that ensure gentle cleansing and inhibit microbial growth on the scalp [15]. Amla, a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent, is revered in Ayurveda for its hair-rejuvenating effects. Its high vitamin C content stimulates collagen production, strengthens hair follicles, and prevents premature greying and hair loss. It also aids in reducing oxidative stress, which is a contributing factor in scalp inflammation and subsequent dandruff formation [16].

Relevance of Herbal Shampoo Formulations

The increasing demand for herbal cosmetics and the therapeutic potential of medicinal plants have led to the formulation of herbal shampoos that integrate traditional wisdom with modern pharmaceutical techniques. The advantages of these shampoos include lower toxicity, better patient compliance, and the ability to target multiple etiological factors simultaneously. Herbal shampoos formulated using extracts from Reetha, Shikakai, and Amla can cleanse the scalp, inhibit fungal growth, soothe inflammation, and maintain the pH of the scalp environment—all essential features for effective dandruff management [17]. Moreover, formulation studies ensure the stability and consistency of these products through parameters such as pH, viscosity, foaming index, dirt dispersion, and total solid content. These evaluations provide insights into the consumer acceptability and therapeutic reliability of the product. For example, a foaming index of 500, as observed in the prepared formulation, indicates good cleansing potential without the use of harsh surfactants [18].

Research Objective and Significance

The primary aim of the present study is to formulate and evaluate a polyherbal anti-dandruff shampoo incorporating Sapindus mukorossi, Acacia concinna, and Phyllanthus emblica extracts. The specific objectives include:

• Development of a stable herbal shampoo formulation;
• Evaluation of physicochemical properties such as pH, foamability, and viscosity;
• Assessment of anti-dandruff efficacy through microbiological testing;
• Safety testing through skin irritation studies;
• Comparative analysis with commercially available synthetic anti-dandruff shampoos.

This research is significant in the context of increasing consumer interest in herbal personal care products and the global demand for plant-based therapies. It bridges the gap between traditional knowledge and scientific validation, contributing to the field of phytopharmaceuticals and cosmetic science.

Symptoms and Classification of Dandruff

According to the symptoms dandruff is classified into two types – Dry (common) and Oily dandruff. Dry (common) dandruff also known as Pityriasis simplex is characterized by excessive formation of minute scales of white grayish or ashen color, accumulating on the scalp area. These scales are at first localized in the middle of scalp area and then spread towards parietal, frontal and occipital areas. Scales visible on the scalp are separated cells of keratinised layer, whose renewal cycle is pathologically shortened. In this type of dandruff, no excessive hair loss is observed. In the epidermis of people suffering from dry dandruff, histopathology analysis reveals characteristic intervals of parakeratosis foci, raised mitotic index of corneocytes and peeling in the form of muticellular aggregates, there is not Actual inflammatory status of the skin is found, Figure 1. The other type of dandruff is called oily dandruff or Pityriasis steatoides. It arises on the scalp skin with varied intensity of sebum production. It appears most often in young men following puberty (aged between 18 and 24). Inflammation of varied intensity develops on the scalp skin along with the appearance of oily scales of dirty yellow colour that can form lesions, Figure 2. These lesions can be associated with pruritis of different intensity. Hairfall is common, it may also exacerbate androgenetic alopecia, Figure 3. The most common site affected by this type of dandruff is scalp, but it can occur between eyebrows, along the side of nose, behind the ears, Figure 4, over the breastbone and sometimes in the armpits (Nowicki, 2006). It is clear that dandruff is more than superficial disorders of the stratum corneum. Instead, the epidermis is substantially altered, with hyperproliferation, excess intercellular and intracellular lipids, interdigitation of the corneal envelope and parakeratosis [19].

Fig. 1: Scalp with dry dandruff

Fig.2: Scalp with oily dandruff

Fig. 3: Scalp with severe dandruff

Fig. 4: Hairfall due to dandruff

Table 1: List of the important plants with antidandruff property [20]

MATERIAL AND METHOD [21-24]

MATERIALS

Table 2: Materials Used in the Formulation of Anti-Dandruff Herbal Shampoo

Shikakai (Acacia Concinna)

Table 3: Botanical and Phytochemical Profile of Shikakai (Acacia concinna)

Figure 5: Shikakai (Acacia concinna)

Acacia concinna, commonly known as Shikakai, is a climbing shrub native to the tropical forests of central and southern India. It has been widely used in traditional Indian hair care for centuries. Shikakai is considered a natural cleanser due to its rich content of plant saponins, which function as mild surfactants. These saponins exhibit foaming properties when in contact with water and assist in removing dirt and excess oils from the scalp without disrupting its natural lipid barrier. Phytochemically, A. concinna pods are rich in acacic acid lactone, lupeol, betulin, oleanolic acid, and spinasterol, all of which possess antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Furthermore, flavonoids such as apigenin and quercetin found in Shikakai contribute to its antioxidant profile, thereby protecting hair follicles from oxidative stress-induced damage. Its low pH helps retain the scalp’s acidity and prevent fungal overgrowth. The plant also contains vitamins A, C, D, E, and K, which collectively nourish the scalp and stimulate hair growth [25].

Reetha (Sapindus Mukorossi

Table 4: Botanical and Phytochemical Profile of Reetha (Sapindus mukorossi) [26]

Figure 6: Reetha (Sapindus mukorossi)

Sapindus mukorossi, or Reetha (also known as soapnut), is a deciduous tree found predominantly in the Himalayan foothills. It has a long-standing reputation in Ayurvedic and Unani systems of medicine for its gentle cleansing properties. The fruits of S. mukorossi are high in triterpenoid saponins, particularly mukorozic acid, which imparts its soap-like behavior. These saponins effectively remove sebum, microbial buildup, and dandruff flakes without causing scalp dryness. Reetha also contains flavonoids, tannins, and phenolic acids, all of which provide antibacterial, antifungal, and antioxidant actions. These constituents help maintain scalp hygiene and reduce the colonization of dandruff-causing fungi such as Malassezia globosa. In addition to cleansing, Reetha contributes to hair shine and softness, and it is often used in lice treatments due to its insecticidal properties. Reetha has a pH balancing effect, making it suitable for daily use without disrupting the scalp's microbiome [27].

Amla (Phyllanthus Emblica)

Table 5: Botanical and Phytochemical Profile of Amla (Emblica officinalis) [28]

Figure 7: Amla (Phyllanthus emblica)

Phyllanthus emblica, commonly referred to as Amla or Indian gooseberry, is one of the most potent sources of natural Vitamin C and has earned a prominent place in traditional Indian medicine. The fruit of P. emblica contains ascorbic acid in exceptionally high concentrations (up to 600 mg/100 g), which plays a vital role in collagen synthesis and promotes scalp health. Besides Vitamin C, Amla is rich in polyphenols such as gallic acid, ellagic acid, emblicanin A and B, quercetin, and flavonoids, all of which have free-radical scavenging effects. These antioxidant compounds protect hair follicles from oxidative stress and environmental damage. Amla’s antifungal and antimicrobial activities help mitigate dandruff, while its anti-inflammatory properties reduce scalp irritation. Moreover, Amla nourishes hair roots, enhances melanin production, and delays the onset of premature greying. It also contains essential minerals such as calcium, phosphorus, and iron, which are important for hair structure and strength. These three ingredients synergistically cleanse, nourish, and protect the scalp. Their combination in a single formulation offers a holistic solution to dandruff through antimicrobial, antioxidant, and keratolytic actions, all while preserving the scalp's physiological balance [29].

Formula:

Table 6: Composition of the Anti-Dandruff Herbal Shampoo Formulation [30]

Role of Ingredients:

Table 7: Functional Role of Each Ingredient in the Herbal Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Formulation [31]

METHODOLOGY [32-35]

1. Ritha Extract:

10 g of Sapindus mukorossi (Ritha) powder was macerated in 30 mL of 70% ethanol at room temperature (cold maceration).

2. Amla Extract:

10 g of Phyllanthus emblica (Amla) powder was boiled in 50 mL distilled water for 10 minutes, then filtered.

3. Shikakai Extract:

10 g of Acacia concinna (Shikakai) powder was boiled in 50 mL distilled water, cooled, and filtered.

4. Gelatin Solution:

1 g of gelatin was dissolved in 50 mL of boiling water, with continued boiling for 5 minutes to ensure complete dissolution.

Formulation of Herbal Shampoo

The obtained extracts were mixed with gelatin solution while warm. To this mixture, methyl paraben, citric acid, and rose oil were added in specified proportions. The shampoo was stirred continuously to ensure uniform blending.

Final Formula (per 100 g shampoo)

Table 8: Composition of the Anti-Dandruff Herbal Shampoo Formulation

1. Foaming Index:

• 1 mL of shampoo was diluted to 100 mL with distilled water in a graduated cylinder.
• The cylinder was shaken 10 times and allowed to stand.
• The foam height (in cm) after 1 minute was recorded as the foaming index.

2. Total Solid Content:

• 4 mL of shampoo was evaporated in a tared dish.
• The residue was weighed to calculate percentage solids:
  % Solid Content = (Weight of residue / 4) × 100

3. Organoleptic Properties:
   • Colour, odour, texture, and appearance were visually assessed.
4. Dirt Dispersion Test:

A drop of India ink was added to the diluted shampoo to observe dirt dispersion.

Calculation:

Foaming Index (FI) = Height of foam (in mL) after 1 minute

(No complex formula – it is a direct reading of foam height)

Interpretation

Table 9: Interpretation of Foaming Index Based on Foam Height in Herbal Shampoo Evaluation

Note:

• Foam stability can also be assessed by recording foam height after 5 or 10 minutes.
• Use of natural surfactants like ritha and shikakai improves foam stability in herbal shampoos.

Calculation

1. Weight of empty evaporating dish (A) = 76.14gm
2. Weight of evaporating dish after evaporation (B)

       =76.47 gm

3. Weight of sample = (B) – (A)

              = 76.47 – 76.14

Total solid content = 0.33 gm

Therefore % solid content = (B-A) / 4 x 100

              = 0.33/ 4x100

              = 8.25 %

Observation Table

Table 10: Foaming Ability of Herbal Shampoo Based on Varying Volumes of Stock Solution

Foaming index = 1000/A

A= Volume of decoction having exact 1cm height Foaming index = 1000/2

                         = 500

Figure 8: Foaming Ability of Herbal Shampoo Based on Varying Volumes of Stock Solution

RESULT AND DISCUSSION

The herbal anti-dandruff shampoo was successfully formulated using natural ingredients such as Ritha (Sapindus mukorossi), Shikakai (Acacia concinna), and Amla (Phyllanthus emblica), all known for their cleansing, antifungal, and conditioning properties. The formulation was evaluated through organoleptic, physicochemical, and performance-based tests.

3.1 Evaluation Results

Table 11: Evaluation of Organoleptic and Physicochemical Parameters of the Formulated Herbal Anti-Dandruff Shampoo