Formulation and Evaluation of a Poly-Herbal Under-Eye Cream: A Comprehensive Study on Natural Ingredients for Skin Care

Nirmala Korukola, Abdul Ayesha Begum, Dokala Keerthi Anjali, Kottalanka Gladish, Ponnapalli Divya Sri Satya,

doi:10.5281/zenodo.18677800

Research Paper | Open Access
Volume 03 | Issue 02 | Article Id IJSRT/260402040

Formulation and Evaluation of a Poly-Herbal Under-Eye Cream: A Comprehensive Study on Natural Ingredients for Skin Care
Nirmala Korukola* Abdul Ayesha Begum Dokala Keerthi Anjali Kottalanka Gladish Ponnapalli Divya Sri Satya
Department of Pharmacognosy, KGRL College of Pharmacy, Bhimavaram, India

Abstract

This study presents the formulation and evaluation of a poly-herbal under-eye cream utilizing a blend of natural ingredients aimed at addressing common skin concerns in the delicate under-eye area. The cream incorporates eight active botanical ingredients: coffee, haritaki (Terminalia chebula), aloe vera, rose water, coconut oil, vitamin E, orange peel powder, and vetiver. These ingredients are carefully selected based on their synergistic effects, combining both traditional knowledge and modern scientific insights. The formulation is designed to combat puffiness, dark circles, fine lines, and skin dehydration by improving circulation, providing deep moisturization, and offering antioxidant and anti-inflammatory protection. The cream’s efficacy was evaluated through various tests, including organoleptic, physical, and microbiological evaluations. The results showed the product's stability, homogeneity, and safety for use, with no adverse effects observed during irritation tests and a pH value within the optimal range for under-eye skin. The cream demonstrated excellent spreadability and homogeneity, further validating its cosmetic appeal. This formulation presents a natural, holistic alternative to synthetic cosmetic products, appealing to consumers seeking eco-friendly skincare solutions.

Keywords

Poly-herbal, Under-eye cream, Natural ingredients, Formulation, Evaluation, Skin care

Introduction

The skin around the eyes is one of the most delicate and sensitive areas of the face, which is prone to signs of aging, puffiness, dark circles, fine lines, and dehydration. This region, with its thinner skin and reduced sebaceous activity, is highly vulnerable to oxidative stress and environmental damage, leading to visible skin issues that affect the appearance and health of the under-eye area. In recent years, there has been a significant shift towards using natural ingredients in cosmetic formulations, as consumers are increasingly seeking products that are free from synthetic chemicals and offer gentler alternatives. The use of plant-based ingredients, such as herbal extracts, in skincare products has gained popularity due to their proven benefits for skin health, safety, and efficacy. The under-eye cream presented in this study combines eight potent natural ingredients, including coffee, Terminalia chebula (haritaki), aloe vera, rose water, coconut oil, vitamin E, orange peel powder, and vetiver. Each of these ingredients was chosen based on its known therapeutic properties, and together they work synergistically to address common concerns associated with the under-eye region. Coffee extract is known for its ability to reduce puffiness and dark circles due to its vasoconstrictor effects and high caffeine content [1]. Haritaki, a prominent herb in Ayurvedic medicine, offers antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that aid in skin rejuvenation [2]. Aloe vera, with its moisturizing and soothing capabilities, is essential for keeping the skin hydrated and reducing irritation [3]. Coconut oil provides deep hydration and supports skin barrier function, while vitamin E offers antioxidant protection, enhancing skin repair and reducing oxidative stress [4]. Orange peel powder helps brighten the skin, and vetiver provides cooling and circulation-boosting effects [5, 6]. This combination of ingredients ensures a holistic approach to under-eye care, combining the wisdom of traditional botanical remedies with the benefits of modern pharmacognosy. This study aims to formulate a poly-herbal under-eye cream that not only addresses aesthetic concerns such as puffiness and dark circles but also supports long-term skin health. The formulation aims to provide a safe, effective, and natural alternative to synthetic under-eye creams, offering deep hydration, antioxidant protection, and anti-aging benefits, with a focus on sustainability and holistic care.

LITERATURE REVIEW

Herbal ingredients offer effective and natural solutions for under-eye care. Coffee, rich in caffeine and antioxidants like chlorogenic acid, reduces puffiness, dark circles, and signs of aging by improving circulation and protecting skin from oxidative stress [7]. Haritaki, with its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, helps tighten skin and reduce fine lines [8]. Aloe vera provides deep hydration and accelerates wound healing, making it ideal for soothing the sensitive under-eye area [9]. Rose water offers gentle toning and anti-inflammatory effects, while coconut oil moisturizes and protects the skin barrier [10]. Vitamin E neutralizes free radicals, improving skin elasticity and reducing pigmentation [11]. Orange peel powder brightens the skin and promotes collagen synthesis [12], and vetiver boosts circulation and reduces irritation [13]. These synergistic ingredients make the formulation of a poly-herbal under-eye cream effective in addressing common concerns like puffiness, dark circles, and fine lines.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Materials Used

The poly-herbal under-eye cream formulation was developed using the following raw materials and excipients:

Raw Materials:

Coffee Seeds (Coffea arabica): A natural source of caffeine and chlorogenic acid, used for reducing puffiness and dark circles.
Haritaki (Terminalia chebula): Known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Aloe Vera Gel (Aloe barbadensis miller): Provides hydration, soothing, and anti-inflammatory benefits.
Orange Peel Powder (Citrus sinensis): Rich in vitamin C and flavonoids, brightens the skin and promotes collagen synthesis.
Vetiver Root (Chrysopogon zizanioides): Known for its cooling and circulation-boosting properties.
Vitamin E Capsules (Tocopherol): A powerful antioxidant that helps with skin repair and reduces oxidative stress.

Table 1: Raw materials and excipients used in the formulation

Ingredient	Function
Coffee Seeds (Coffea arabica)	Reduces puffiness, dark circles, and provides antioxidant protection.
Haritaki (Terminalia chebula)	Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, skin tightening, and healing properties.
Aloe Vera Gel (Aloe barbadensis miller)	Hydrates, soothes, and promotes collagen synthesis.
Orange Peel Powder (Citrus sinensis)	Brightens skin, aids collagen synthesis, and provides exfoliation.
Vetiver Root (Chrysopogon zizanioides)	Reduces puffiness, boosts circulation, and cools the skin.
Vitamin E Capsules (Tocopherol)	Antioxidant that helps repair skin and reduce oxidative stress.

Excipients:

Table 2: Excipients used in the formulation

Ingredient	Function
Stearic Acid	Emulsifier and thickener.
Cetyl Alcohol	Co-emulsifier, enhances texture and stability.
Lanolin	Occlusive agent that provides deep moisturization.
Coconut Oil	Moisturizes and provides anti-inflammatory effects.
Glycerin	Humectant that retains moisture.
Triethanolamine	pH adjuster and emulsifier.
Methyl Paraben and Propyl Paraben	Preservatives to prevent microbial growth.
Rose Water	Natural toner and soothing agent.

Glassware and Equipment:

Beakers, sieves, muslin cloth, funnels, petri dishes, and a measuring cylinder were used for the preparation and extraction processes.
Weighing balance, hot air oven, blender, and a burner were utilized during formulation preparation.

Formulation Process

The under-eye cream was prepared using an oil-in-water emulsion method, divided into phases:

Oil Phase (Phase I):
- Stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, lanolin, and coconut oil were melted together. Propyl paraben was added and dissolved.
Aqueous Phase (Phase II):
- Distilled water, methyl paraben, glycerin, and triethanolamine were heated and mixed.
Emulsion Formation:
- The aqueous phase was gradually added to the oil phase with continuous stirring to form a smooth emulsion.
Addition of Extracts:
- Coffee extract (5g), haritaki extract (5g), aloe vera gel (10ml), vitamin E (4ml), orange peel powder extract (5g), and vetiver extract (5g) were mixed into the emulsion, ensuring uniform dispersion.
Fragrance and Packaging:
- Rose water (11.5ml) was added and gently stirred. The final cream was transferred to a sterile container and stored in an airtight glass jar.

Table 3: List of ingredients and excipients used in the poly-herbal under-eye cream formulation

S. No.	Ingredients & excipients	Quantity taken (100gms)
1	Coffee extract	5gms
2	Haritaki extract	5gms
3	Aloe vera gel extract	10ml
4	Orange peel powder extract	5gms
5	Vetiver powder extract	5gms
6	Vitamin E capsule	4 capsules
7	Stearic acid	15gms
8	Cetyl alcohol	10gms
9	Lanolin	10gms
10	Coconut oil	6ml
11	Glycerin	10ml
12	Triethanolamine	2.5ml
13	Methyl paraben	0.5ml
14	Propyl paraben	0.5ml
15	Rose water	11.5ml

Evaluation Methods

To ensure the quality and stability of the formulated cream, the following tests were conducted:

Organoleptic Evaluation:
- Appearance: Semi-solid, light brown.
- Odor: Characteristic.
- Texture: Smooth and non-greasy.
Physical Evaluation:
- pH: Measured using a digital pH meter.
- Spreadability: Determined by the time it takes for two glass slides to separate with 250g weight.
- Irritation Test: Patch test on forearm skin.
- Stability: Photostability testing by exposing the cream to natural sunlight for 5 hours.
Microbiological Testing:
- No microbial growth was observed in the cream after testing, indicating its suitability for therapeutic use.

By using a combination of these tests, the quality and stability of the under-eye cream were ensured.

RESULTS

The results of the evaluation tests conducted on the poly-herbal under-eye cream are summarized below, focusing on the key parameters including organoleptic evaluation, physical evaluation, stability, and microbiological testing.

Fig. 1: The methodology of formulated poly-herbal under-eye cream

4.1 Organoleptic Evaluation

The cream exhibited a smooth texture with a characteristic odor and a light brown color, which is typical for the herbal ingredients used in the formulation.

Table 4: Results of organoleptic evaluation

Parameter	Observation
Appearance	Semi-solid, light brown color
Odor	Characteristic, pleasant
Texture	Smooth, non-greasy

4.2 Physical Evaluation

The cream showed a stable pH value within the ideal range for under-eye skin care. It also displayed good spreadability and did not cause irritation in the patch test. The cream remained stable without any visible changes after exposure to sunlight.

Table 5: Results of physical evaluation

Parameter	Method	Expected Outcome	Result
pH	Measured using a digital pH meter	5.5 - 6.5	5.78
Spreadability	Time for two glass slides to separate (250g weight)	10 - 16 seconds (good to excellent)	13 seconds
Irritation Test	Patch test on forearm skin for 24-48 hours	No irritation observed	No irritation
Stability	Photostability test: cream exposed to sunlight for 5 hours	No changes in color, odor, or pH	No changes

4.3 Homogeneity Test

The cream was homogenous with a uniform texture and no separation observed. The microscopic examination confirmed the cream's monophasic structure with evenly dispersed oil droplets.

Table 6: Results of homogeneity test

Test	Method	Result
Visual Inspection	Inspection for signs of separation or lumps	No signs of separation or lumps observed, uniform color
Microscopic Examination	Observed under a compound microscope at 10x and 40x magnification	Monophasic appearance, small and evenly distributed dispersed phase (oil droplets)

4.4 Microbiological Testing

Microbiological testing was performed to ensure that the cream was free from harmful microbial contamination. The results showed no visible growth of microbes, confirming the product is safe for use in therapeutic applications.

DISCUSSION

The poly-herbal under-eye cream formulation exhibited promising results in both physical and microbiological evaluations. The organoleptic evaluation revealed that the cream had an ideal texture and a pleasant appearance, aligning with expectations for a cosmetic product designed for sensitive skin. The pH of the cream was found to be 5.78, which is within the ideal range for under-eye skin (5.5 - 6.5), ensuring that it is gentle and non-irritating for the delicate skin around the eyes. The spreadability test showed that the cream had good spreadability, making it easy to apply without feeling greasy or heavy. The irritation test further confirmed that the product was well-tolerated, with no adverse reactions after application on the skin. In terms of stability, the cream passed the photostability test, indicating that it remained unaffected by light exposure. This is important for products that are meant for daily use, as they are often exposed to varying environmental conditions. The homogeneity test demonstrated that the cream had a consistent texture and that all ingredients were properly dispersed within the formulation, further supporting its quality and effectiveness. Finally, the microbiological test confirmed the product's safety, as no microbial contamination was observed. The results support the conclusion that the poly-herbal under-eye cream is not only stable and effective but also safe for use, with no irritation or microbial growth observed during testing. The combination of natural ingredients, such as coffee, haritaki, aloe vera, and others, enhances its potential as a safe and effective alternative to synthetic under-eye creams. Future studies can focus on clinical efficacy trials to validate the cream's performance in real-world conditions, especially its long-term effects on reducing puffiness, dark circles, and fine lines.

CONCLUSION

The poly-herbal under-eye cream formulated in this study effectively integrates natural ingredients known for their beneficial effects on skin health, particularly in addressing common concerns such as puffiness, dark circles, fine lines, and dryness. The formulation, composed of a combination of coffee, haritaki, aloe vera, rose water, coconut oil, vitamin E, orange peel powder, and vetiver, has shown promising results in both physical and microbiological evaluations. The poly-herbal under-eye cream demonstrated excellent performance across several key evaluation parameters. The cream maintained a stable pH of 5.78, which is ideal for the delicate under-eye skin. It showed good spreadability, with a spread time of 13 seconds, indicating that it is easy to apply without being too thick or runny. No irritation was observed during the patch test, confirming the cream's gentle nature on the skin. Additionally, the product exhibited no changes in stability after exposure to light, as indicated by the photostability test, ensuring its reliability in various conditions. The cream was homogeneous, with uniformly dispersed active ingredients, which is essential for its efficacy. Furthermore, the absence of microbial growth confirmed the product's safety for therapeutic use, making it suitable for long-term application on the sensitive under-eye area. These results suggest that the poly-herbal under-eye cream not only meets the required cosmetic standards but also offers a safe, effective, and natural alternative to synthetic products. The combination of ingredients such as coffee and haritaki provides antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and rejuvenating properties, while aloe vera, coconut oil, and vitamin E enhance hydration and skin health. The formulation is promising as a cosmetic product with potential for improving the delicate skin around the eyes. Future studies, particularly clinical trials, are needed to validate the long-term efficacy of the cream and confirm its effectiveness in reducing puffiness, dark circles, and fine lines. This research lays the foundation for further exploration of herbal-based skincare and its integration into cosmetic formulations designed for sensitive areas like the under-eye region. The cream offers a holistic and sustainable alternative to synthetic formulations, making it a viable option for consumers seeking natural skincare solutions.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

The authors are sincerely grateful to K.G.R.L. College of Pharmacy for providing the necessary research facilities and support throughout the course of this study. Their assistance has been invaluable in the successful completion of this research.

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