From Tradition to Technology: A Review of Natural Hair Oils in Hair Care

Abstract

Natural hair oils represent a cornerstone of cosmetic science, combining traditional ethnobotanical knowledge with modern formulation strategies. Defined as lipid-based extracts from plant seeds, fruits, or kernels, natural oils provide multifunctional benefits, including nourishment, scalp conditioning, and hair protection. Their significance lies not only in personal care and cultural heritage but also in their bioactive composition rich in triglycerides, fatty acids, and phytochemicals that deliver antioxidant, antimicrobial, and emollient properties. Commonly studied oils such as coconut, argan, olive, castor, almond, and neem have demonstrated efficacy in reducing protein loss, enhancing shine, improving scalp health, and addressing dandruff. Contemporary research extends its application into emulsion-based serums, sprays, and multifunctional blends. While consumer demand increasingly favours herbal, organic, and cold-pressed oils, safety considerations—such as dermatological sensitisation, oxidative stability, and regulatory compliance—remain central. Emerging innovations include nanoemulsions, microencapsulation, vitamin fortification, AI-driven personalisation, and sustainable sourcing. These trends reflect a shift toward evidence-based, eco-conscious, and consumer-tailored formulations. The cosmetic relevance of natural hair oils thus depends on balancing efficacy, safety, and sustainability, underscoring their continuing potential as a major research frontier in interdisciplinary cosmetic science.

Keywords

Introduction

Background and Relevance

Natural hair oils are lipid-based botanical products derived primarily from seeds, nuts, or fruits and are widely applied for hair and scalp care. In cosmetic science, they are defined as plant-derived oils containing bioactive fatty acids, vitamins, and phytochemicals that provide lubrication, conditioning, and protection to hair fibres and scalp tissue [1]. The conceptualisation of hair oils spans both traditional ethnomedicinal practices and modern cosmetic chemistry, reflecting a convergence of cultural heritage and scientific validation. From a traditional perspective, hair oiling has been an essential part of grooming and medicinal practice in South Asia, the Middle East, and parts of Africa. In India, the daily application of coconut, amla, or hibiscus oil has long been associated with nourishment, scalp cooling, and hair-growth promotion [2]. These practices, embedded in Ayurvedic and Unani systems of medicine, emphasise holistic benefits—ranging from stress reduction to prevention of premature greying. Modern scientific exploration, however, reframes these oils as delivery systems for triglycerides, phenolics, and antioxidants that can modulate hair tensile strength, reduce protein loss, and mitigate environmental damage [3]. The importance of hair oils in personal care extends beyond traditional rituals. In the cosmetic industry, oils are increasingly recognised for their multifunctional benefits—hydration, anti-frizz, shine enhancement, scalp conditioning, and even protective effects against UV radiation and pollution [4]. Unlike purely synthetic formulations, natural oils offer consumer appeal due to their biocompatibility and alignment with the clean beauty movement, which emphasises “natural,” “organic,” and “sustainable” ingredients [5]. In cultural terms, hair oiling rituals also serve psychosocial and aesthetic purposes. Practices such as “champi” (head massage with oil) are associated with relaxation, familial bonding, and wellness traditions. These cultural practices intersect with modern wellness trends, positioning hair oils at the nexus of cosmetic utility and cultural symbolism [1]. The relevance of natural hair oils in cosmetic science lies in their potential to bridge consumer expectations with evidence-based efficacy. Coconut oil is the best-documented example, with studies demonstrating its ability to penetrate hair fibres, reduce breakage, and enhance scalp hydration [3]. Other oils, such as argan, castor, and almond, are widely marketed but supported by less rigorous scientific data, highlighting the need for systematic evaluation. Thus, the introduction of natural hair oils into cosmetic science reflects a dual narrative: one of heritage and tradition and one of modern biochemical and dermatological investigation. Their study offers an interdisciplinary field that connects ethnopharmacology, cosmetic chemistry, dermatology, and consumer science.

Chemistry / Chemical Basis of Hair Oil Functionality

The chemical foundation of natural hair oils lies in their composition of triglycerides, fatty acids, and phytochemicals, which together define their functional behaviour on hair and scalp. Most natural oils are predominantly triglycerides, esters of glycerol with fatty acids of varying chain length. The type and proportion of fatty acids largely determine an oil’s ability to penetrate hair fibres, provide lubrication, and deliver bioactive benefits [1]. For instance, coconut oil is composed primarily of medium-chain triglycerides, particularly lauric acid (C12:0), which has a straight chain and low molecular weight that allows it to diffuse into the hair shaft and bind to keratin proteins [3]. This penetrative ability distinguishes coconut oil from long-chain fatty acid–rich oils such as sunflower or mineral oil, which tend to remain on the surface and act primarily as lubricants [6]. In addition to triglycerides, natural hair oils contain phytochemicals, including polyphenols, tocopherols, sterols, and triterpenes that provide antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties. Argan oil, for example, contains high levels of oleic and linoleic acids along with vitamin E, squalene, and polyphenols, which contribute to its moisturising and protective activities [5]. Similarly, castor oil is unique in its abundance of ricinoleic acid, a hydroxylated fatty acid with humectant properties and possible antimicrobial activity, making it a frequent component in scalp-treatment formulations [1]. These phytochemicals add functional diversity, enabling oils not only to condition hair fibres but also to modulate scalp microbiota and oxidative stress. From a cosmetic chemistry perspective, natural oils can be categorised into three main groups. Carrier oils (e.g., coconut, olive, almond) serve as the primary base, providing emollience and nutrient delivery. Essential oils (e.g., tea tree, rosemary, lavender) are volatile aromatic compounds used in small concentrations for fragrance and bioactivity; however, their irritant potential limits concentration thresholds in hair formulations [2]. Infused or herbal oils, in which plant extracts such as hibiscus, amla, or fenugreek are macerated into carrier oils, combine the benefits of base lipids with additional phytoconstituents [7]. The mechanism of action of these oils depends on their ability to lubricate the cuticle, reduce friction between fibres, and, in certain cases, penetrate the cortex. Coconut oil has been shown to reduce hair protein loss in both pre- and post-wash applications [6], while argan oil primarily coats the cuticle, improving gloss and reducing frizz without substantial penetration [5]. Comparatively, synthetic silicone-based hair products such as dimethicone form an occlusive surface film that imparts shine but lacks nutritive value and may accumulate with repeated use [4]. Natural oils, in contrast, often integrate nutritive and functional effects alongside sensory attributes, making them attractive in “clean beauty” formulations. Thus, the cosmetic chemistry of natural hair oils reveals both common structural motifs—triglycerides and fatty acids—and unique functional signatures imparted by phytochemicals. Their efficacy is strongly influenced by molecular characteristics such as chain length, polarity, and unsaturation, which dictate interactions with keratin, sebum, and the scalp environment. This chemical diversity underpins their wide adoption in both traditional and modern cosmetic formulations.

Common Natural Hair Oils and Their Cosmetic Relevance / Key Oils and Their Cosmetic Applications

The diversity of natural hair oils in cosmetic practice reflects both biochemical variation and cultural preference. Each oil demonstrates distinct physicochemical properties, which influence its cosmetic applications. Among these, coconut oil is the most extensively studied. Rich in medium-chain triglycerides, primarily lauric acid, it exhibits high affinity for hair proteins due to its linear structure and polarity. Rele and Mohile [6] demonstrated that coconut oil significantly reduces hair protein loss when used in both pre- and post-wash conditions, outperforming mineral and sunflower oils. More recently, Kim and Ahn [3] confirmed coconut oil’s penetration into the cortex, where it enhances tensile strength and reduces cuticular swelling in chemically damaged hair. These properties make coconut oil an effective conditioner and protector against environmental stressors.

• Argan oil, derived from Argania spinosa kernels, is another widely commercialised oil, often referred to as “liquid gold.” Its cosmetic appeal stems from high levels of oleic and linoleic acids, along with tocopherols and squalene, which impart antioxidant and emollient properties [5]. Although its penetration into the cortex is limited compared to coconut oil, argan oil effectively coats the cuticle, enhancing shine, reducing frizz, and protecting against oxidative damage. Clinical studies remain limited, but their popularity in premium formulations highlights the influence of marketing and consumer perception as much as scientific validation.
• Olive oil, long used in Mediterranean cultures, contains high concentrations of oleic acid, polyphenols, and squalene. Its function is largely emollient, improving scalp hydration and reducing cuticular roughness [4]. Though evidence for direct hair strengthening is weaker, olive oil is recognised for its scalp-conditioning and anti-inflammatory effects, supporting its role in managing dandruff and dry scalp [1].
• Castor oil, dominated by ricinoleic acid, is notable for its viscosity and purported antimicrobial properties. While often marketed for hair thickening and growth stimulation, scientific validation is scarce. Mysore [1] suggests a possible role of ricinoleic acid in modulating prostaglandin D? synthase, implicated in alopecia, but clinical trials are lacking. Nevertheless, castor oil remains valued for scalp massage due to its occlusive and lubricating properties.
• Almond oil, lighter in texture, contains linoleic and oleic acids along with vitamin E. Its cosmetic relevance lies in its quick absorption, non-greasy after-feel, and scalp-nourishing potential, making it particularly suitable for fine hair types [5].
• Neem oil, rich in limonoids and azadirachtin, has strong antifungal and antibacterial activity, supporting its application in anti-dandruff formulations [2]. However, potential irritancy requires careful dilution.

The herbal blends such as amla (Phyllanthus emblica), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), and bhringraj (Eclipta alba) have long-standing Ayurvedic use. These formulations, often prepared in coconut or sesame oil bases, provide antioxidant and purported hair-growth benefits. Bagad et al. [7] demonstrated favourable physicochemical stability and consumer acceptability of such blends, though rigorous clinical data remain limited. While coconut oil enjoys robust mechanistic and clinical support, other oils—argan, olive, almond, castor, neem, and polyherbal blends—contribute diverse cosmetic functions ranging from shine and smoothness to scalp health. Their widespread adoption underscores both biochemical utility and cultural heritage, though future research must critically evaluate claims of growth stimulation and therapeutic efficacy.

Evaluation and Testing of Hair Oils / Methods for Assessing Hair Oil Quality and Performance

The evaluation of natural hair oils in cosmetic science requires a multidisciplinary approach, combining physicochemical analysis, performance assessment, dermatological safety testing, and consumer perception studies. Such evaluations ensure not only the functional efficacy of formulations but also compliance with regulatory and market standards. From a physicochemical standpoint, oils are analysed for viscosity, pH, refractive index, and peroxide value. These parameters provide insight into spreadability, scalp compatibility, and oxidative stability [4]. Viscosity influences user experience, with highly viscous oils such as castor oil requiring blending for ease of application. pH must align with scalp physiology (typically 4.5–5.5) to avoid irritation, while peroxide value indicates rancidity and oxidative degradation [10]. Advanced methods such as gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) allow for profiling of fatty acids and bioactive compounds, aiding in standardisation [5]. Performance testing examines the cosmetic benefits imparted by oils. Mechanical and imaging techniques quantify improvements in hair strength, shine, and smoothness. Rele and Mohile [6] demonstrated coconut oil’s superiority in reducing protein loss compared to mineral and sunflower oils. More recent work has employed scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to assess cuticular integrity and thermal protection following oil application [3]. Anti-frizz efficacy is evaluated under controlled humidity chambers, while glossmeters and tribological testing assess shine and combability. Equally important are dermatological safety assessments. Patch testing and human repeat insult patch tests (HRIPT) are conducted to identify risks of irritation and sensitisation [1]. Since essential oils and neem derivatives may trigger allergic responses, regulatory frameworks recommend strict adherence to concentration limits. In vitro cytotoxicity assays using human keratinocyte or fibroblast cultures provide additional insights into safety profiles before human trials [9]. Consumer sensory evaluation remains central to cosmetic acceptability. Attributes such as fragrance, spreadability, after-feel, and washability are rated through structured questionnaires and hedonic scales [7]. Sensory data, often analysed with multivariate statistical tools, help refine formulations to align with consumer expectations. In recent years, cross-cultural studies have highlighted variation in preferences—for example, Indian consumers often value heavy, nourishing oils, while Western consumers prefer lightweight, non-greasy serums [5]. Overall, the evaluation and testing of hair oils integrate analytical chemistry, dermatology, and consumer science. Rigorous testing not only validates traditional claims but also provides credibility in increasingly evidence-driven cosmetic markets. However, a critical gap remains in standardised clinical trials for claims such as “hair growth promotion,” which are frequently marketed but rarely substantiated through controlled studies. Addressing these gaps will strengthen scientific credibility and regulatory compliance.

Applications / Functional Roles of Hair Oils in Cosmetics

Natural hair oils occupy a versatile role in cosmetic applications, encompassing nourishment, conditioning, scalp therapy, styling, and protection. Their multifunctionality arises from their diverse lipid compositions, phytoconstituents, and ability to interact with both the hair shaft and scalp. Unlike synthetic silicone-based products, which provide temporary coating effects, natural oils may deliver deeper biochemical benefits. One of the most established functions is nourishment and conditioning. Oils such as coconut and almond penetrate the hair shaft to varying extents, reducing protein loss and increasing tensile strength [6]. Their emollient action smooths the cuticle, decreasing friction during combing, while unsaturated oils like olive and argan provide a protective film that enhances softness and gloss [4]. These benefits position oils as both leave-in treatments and pre-wash conditioners. In scalp health and anti-dandruff care, certain oils provide antifungal and antibacterial activity. Neem oil, containing azadirachtin and limonoids, exhibits strong efficacy against Malassezia species associated with dandruff [2]. Tea tree and rosemary oils, when incorporated in blends, further support scalp microbiome balance. Such applications underscore the dual therapeutic-cosmetic value of natural oils in addressing dandruff and scalp irritation [9]. Natural oils also contribute to anti-frizz and styling functions. By coating the hair surface, oils minimise moisture absorption in humid conditions, reducing frizz and maintaining smoother hair shafts. Argan oil, with high levels of tocopherols and unsaturated fatty acids, is particularly valued in premium styling serums for enhancing shine and reducing static [5]. Claims around hair growth support represent a longstanding but contested domain. Traditional Ayurvedic formulations with amla, bhringraj, and hibiscus oils are widely marketed for growth promotion. Experimental studies suggest that bioactive such as ecliptine in Eclipta alba and tannins in amla may influence follicular activity [1]. However, systematic clinical trials remain limited, and evidence is largely anecdotal or derived from animal models. This highlights a critical gap between traditional claims and modern evidence. A growing area of application involves protection from environmental stressors. Oils form semi-occlusive films that limit damage from UV exposure, particulate pollution, and chemical treatments. Coconut oil has demonstrated protective effects against UV-induced cuticular damage [3]. Similarly, formulations combining oils with antioxidants such as vitamin E or rosemary extract enhance photoprotection and reduce oxidative stress. The natural hair oils serve as multifunctional cosmetic agents, bridging traditional ethnomedicine with contemporary consumer needs. Their roles span from basic conditioning to specialised scalp therapy and environmental protection. Nonetheless, while their functional benefits are well supported in some domains (conditioning, scalp health), claims around growth stimulation warrant further clinical validation.

Market Trends and Consumer Preferences / Consumer Demand and Market Dynamics

The global hair oil market has undergone a significant transformation, shaped by evolving consumer demands, sustainability concerns, and innovations in formulation and marketing. Traditionally rooted in ethnobotanical practices, particularly in South Asia, hair oils are now integrated into mainstream cosmetic industries worldwide. This shift reflects broader consumer preferences for natural, organic, and multifunctional products. A major trend is the growing inclination toward herbal, organic, and Ayurvedic oils. Surveys across India and Southeast Asia reveal consumer trust in oils containing amla, hibiscus, and bhringraj due to their long-standing association with scalp health and hair growth [1]. Globally, consumer interest aligns with the “green beauty” movement, wherein products perceived as plant-based and minimally processed are favoured [5]. This has boosted demand for oils labelled as cold-pressed, virgin, and unrefined, particularly coconut, almond, and argan oils, which are marketed as preserving natural bioactive compounds. Another important trend is the premiumization of oils. While coconut oil remains ubiquitous, premium oils such as argan, jojoba, and macadamia are positioned as luxury products, emphasising shine, smoothness, and anti-frizz benefits [5]. The rise of salon-exclusive and prestige brands highlights how marketing strategies leverage ingredient provenance and exoticism. At the same time, digital marketing and social media influencers amplify consumer awareness of these premium oils. Consumers increasingly seek multifunctional blends that combine benefits such as nourishment, anti-dandruff action, growth support, and UV protection in a single formulation. This preference is consistent with the broader trend in cosmetics toward hybrid products offering both therapeutic and aesthetic value [10]. Oils with added actives such as vitamin E, keratin peptides, or botanical antioxidants resonate strongly with health-conscious consumers. Packaging and sensory attributes also influence purchasing decisions. Lightweight, non-greasy oils with quick absorption are favoured in Western markets, while richer, heavier oils maintain popularity in South Asian contexts where overnight oiling traditions persist [7]. Packaging innovations, such as spray dispensers, pump bottles, and travel-sized units, enhance convenience and consumer appeal. Branding strategies that emphasise sustainability, cruelty-free testing, and fair-trade sourcing further reinforce consumer trust. In terms of market growth, Asia-Pacific remains the dominant region due to cultural reliance on hair oils, but North America and Europe are experiencing rising adoption, driven by multicultural consumer bases and increased interest in natural personal care products [5]. The market trends in natural hair oils reflect a convergence of tradition and innovation. Consumer demand is driven not only by perceived efficacy but also by values such as natural sourcing, multifunctionality, and sustainability. The interplay between cultural heritage and global cosmetic marketing ensures that natural hair oils remain a dynamic and expanding sector.

Regulatory and Safety Considerations / Safety, Standards, And Regulatory Frameworks

The regulatory and safety landscape for natural hair oils is complex, shaped by national standards, international cosmetic frameworks, and consumer protection policies. As natural oils occupy the intersection of traditional remedies and modern cosmetics, ensuring compliance with safety, labelling, and claims regulations is essential for industry credibility. In India, hair oils fall under the purview of the Central Drugs Standard Control Organisation (CDSCO) and the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS). The Drugs and Cosmetics Act (1940) distinguishes between cosmetics and therapeutic products, requiring safety validation, microbial testing, and adherence to permissible ingredient limits [1]. BIS has issued specifications for cosmetic oils, including tests for physicochemical properties such as saponification value, refractive index, and rancidity indicators. Ayurvedic oils may also be registered under the Ministry of AYUSH, though these products are subject to less stringent efficacy testing compared to synthetic cosmetics. Globally, regulatory frameworks such as the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the European Union (EU) Cosmetics Regulation (EC No. 1223/2009) establish rigorous requirements. In the U.S., hair oils are classified as cosmetics unless therapeutic claims (e.g., “treats dandruff” or “stimulates hair growth”) are made, in which case they fall under drug regulation, necessitating clinical substantiation [11]. The EU imposes stricter pre-market safety assessments, mandating a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR), toxicological profiles, and allergen labelling for essential oils [12]. Labelling requirements are critical for consumer safety. The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) system standardises ingredient declaration, enabling transparency and cross-market recognition [5]. Oils such as Cocos nucifera (coconut oil) or Argania spinosa kernel oil must be listed under their INCI names. Additionally, allergens from essential oils, such as limonene or linalool, must be disclosed when concentrations exceed regulatory thresholds. Safety considerations extend to dermatological risks. While most carrier oils are well tolerated, essential oils and neem oils may induce sensitisation or contact dermatitis if used in high concentrations. Patch testing and human repeat insult patch testing (HRIPT) are commonly mandated for finished formulations [9]. Microbial contamination and oxidative degradation also present risks, necessitating preservatives or antioxidants in formulations. A critical regulatory challenge lies in cosmetic claims. Marketing terms such as “hair growth stimulation,” “anti-dandruff,” or “anti-hair fall” often exceed the evidence base. Regulatory authorities increasingly demand claim substantiation through controlled clinical studies, reflecting a move toward evidence-driven cosmetics [5]. The regulatory and safety frameworks for natural hair oils emphasise transparency, substantiation, and consumer protection. While traditional knowledge informs product development, compliance with modern regulatory standards ensures credibility, market access, and consumer trust. The future of natural hair oils depends on harmonising ethnobotanical heritage with stringent safety and labelling practices.

Innovations and Future Directions / Emerging Technologies and Future Opportunities

Innovation in the domain of natural hair oils reflects the convergence of traditional knowledge, cosmetic chemistry, and advanced delivery technologies. Recent research emphasises the need to overcome limitations of conventional oils—such as poor penetration, rancidity, and greasy after-feel—through novel formulation strategies and scientific validation. One significant innovation involves nanoemulsions and microencapsulation, which enhance the delivery of bioactive compounds into the scalp and hair shaft. Nanoemulsions increase surface area, improving absorption and stability while reducing greasiness, thereby addressing consumer concerns about texture [13]. Microencapsulation of essential oils such as rosemary or tea tree provides controlled release, minimising irritation while prolonging activity [14]. These approaches represent a shift toward targeted delivery systems in cosmetic science. A parallel innovation trajectory lies in the fortification of oils with vitamins, peptides, and plant-derived actives. Oils enriched with vitamin E or coenzyme Q10 demonstrate enhanced antioxidant protection, while peptide fortification targets follicle stimulation, bridging the gap between cosmetics and cosmeceuticals [15]. Integration of botanical actives such as curcumin, resveratrol, or green tea polyphenols into oil bases has also gained traction, expanding functional claims to include anti-ageing and anti-pollution benefits [5]. The industry is also moving toward sustainable and eco-friendly sourcing. Ethical procurement of argan, jojoba, and shea oils through fair-trade initiatives aligns with consumer preference for socially responsible cosmetics [16]. Innovations in extraction methods—such as supercritical CO? extraction—further enhance purity while reducing environmental impact. This reflects the broader transition toward green chemistry in personal care formulations. Consumer-centric approaches are shaping AI-driven personalisation, where algorithms recommend customised oil blends based on hair type, scalp condition, and environmental exposure [17]. Personalised hair oils are increasingly marketed as premium solutions, offering blends optimised for growth, dandruff control, or shine. Another emerging trend is the development of waterless and hybrid oil-serum products. With growing awareness of sustainability, water-free formulations not only conserve resources but also extend product shelf-life by minimising microbial contamination [18]. Hybrid serums combine lightweight oils with silicones or esters, delivering dual benefits of natural nourishment and instant styling effects, appealing to modern consumer expectations of multifunctionality. Future innovations will likely integrate omics technologies (metabolomics and proteomics) to better understand scalp biology and customise oil formulations accordingly. Combining traditional herbal oils with evidence-based formulation science may unlock new therapeutic and cosmetic potentials. The innovation trajectory for natural hair oils lies in technological refinement, sustainability, and personalisation. Bridging ancestral practices with advanced science will define the next era of hair care, ensuring that natural oils remain central to cosmetic research and consumer adoption.

CONCLUSION

Natural hair oils bridge traditional ethnobotanical practices and modern cosmetic science, remaining vital in personal care for their multifunctionality, affordability, and perceived safety. Across cultures, oils such as coconut, argan, olive, and amla have been used for nourishment, shine, and scalp health, with contemporary research confirming these benefits [1,9]. Their triglycerides, fatty acids, and phytochemicals deliver emollient, antioxidant, and antimicrobial activity, with coconut oil uniquely reducing protein loss compared to silicones [6,15]. Yet challenges persist, including irritation risks, oxidative instability, and exaggerated cosmetic claims [5]. Regulatory frameworks such as the FDA and EU guidelines emphasise substantiation and transparent labelling [11,12]. Recent advances—nanoemulsions, microencapsulation, waterless formulations, and AI-driven personalisation—signal evolving efficacy and sustainability [13,14,16,17,18].

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

We are grateful to Principal, SES’s R. C. Patel Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research, and Principal, SES’s R. C. Patel Institute of Pharmacy, Shirpur, 425405, Dhule, Maharashtra, India, for providing the necessary guidance and facilities for completing the project work.

CONFLICT OF INTEREST

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

Financial Support

Nil.                                          

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