Department of Pharmacology, JES's SND College of Pharmacy, Babulgaon (Yeola), India
Marine-derived products are gaining increasing attention in the cosmeceutical industry due to their unique bioactive compounds, which offer exceptional therapeutic benefits for skin health and beauty. These bioactive compounds, including peptides, polysaccharides, fatty acids, and antioxidants, have demonstrated powerful effects in promoting skin regeneration, moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and skin protection. This review provides an overview of various marine-derived ingredients, their mechanisms of action, and their applications in cosmeceuticals. It also highlights recent developments, challenges, and the future prospects of marine-based products in cosmetic formulations.
The increasing demand for natural, safe, and effective ingredients in the cosmetic and skincare industries has led to the exploration of marine-derived products as key components in modern cosmeceuticals. As consumers continue to seek products that provide visible skin benefits while being gentle on the environment, marine resources have emerged as an ideal source of bioactive compounds that can deliver potent therapeutic effects [1]. Marine organisms, including algae, seaweed, fish, mollusks, and corals, are rich in unique bioactive compounds such as peptides, polysaccharides, fatty acids, antioxidants, and minerals, which offer a wide range of benefits for skin health. These compounds have shown promise in addressing various dermatological concerns, such as aging, pigmentation, inflammation, and even wound healing.
The marine ecosystem is characterized by its harsh and diverse environments, leading to the development of specialized compounds by marine organisms to survive in such conditions. These bioactive molecules have evolved to possess properties that help protect and rejuvenate skin, offering applications in the formulation of anti-aging products, moisturizers, sun care formulations, and treatments for sensitive or damaged skin. With the growing interest in sustainable and plant-based skincare products, marine-derived cosmeceuticals are becoming an integral part of the beauty industry, offering consumers both effective solutions and a greener alternative to traditional chemical-based cosmetics [2,3].
One of the most prominent marine-derived ingredients in cosmeceuticals is marine collagen, which is obtained from fish skin, scales, and bones. Marine collagen is known for its superior bioavailability compared to other sources of collagen and is widely used in anti-aging skincare products due to its ability to promote skin elasticity, reduce fine lines, and encourage tissue repair. Seaweed extracts are also frequently used for their hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties, as they contain essential minerals, vitamins, and polysaccharides that support skin moisture retention and skin barrier function. Furthermore, marine peptides, derived from fish, mollusks, and even microorganisms, exhibit remarkable effects on skin regeneration, collagen synthesis, and pigmentation control [4,5].
Figure 1: Marine-Derived Products for Cosmetics
In addition to these ingredients, omega-3 fatty acids found in marine oils, including fish oil and krill oil, are gaining attention for their anti-inflammatory properties, which help in reducing redness, puffiness, and skin irritation. These omega-3s are essential for maintaining healthy skin barriers and enhancing the skin’s natural defense mechanisms against environmental stressors. Moreover, bioactive compounds such as astaxanthin, derived from certain algae, act as potent antioxidants that help protect the skin from UV damage, pigmentation, and oxidative stress, which are major contributors to skin aging [6].
Despite the potential benefits, the integration of marine-derived products in cosmeceuticals comes with certain challenges. Sustainability is a growing concern, as over-harvesting of marine organisms can deplete natural resources. To address this, sustainable sourcing practices, marine biotechnology, and aquaculture techniques are being employed to ensure that marine ingredients are harvested in an environmentally responsible manner. Regulatory challenges also persist, as marine-derived ingredients must undergo rigorous testing and validation before being incorporated into cosmetic formulations. Additionally, the stability of certain marine-based compounds may be affected by exposure to heat, light, or air, requiring innovative formulation techniques to preserve their efficacy [7,8].
This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of marine-derived products used in cosmeceuticals, focusing on their bioactive compounds, mechanisms of action, and key benefits for skin health. The article will examine the diverse marine sources of these bioactive ingredients, such as algae, fish, mollusks, and marine microorganisms, and explore their potential applications in skincare. Furthermore, the review will address the challenges associated with the use of marine products in the cosmetic industry and discuss future prospects, emphasizing how advances in marine biotechnology may contribute to the development of sustainable and effective cosmeceutical formulations.
As the beauty industry continues to evolve, marine-derived products offer immense potential to revolutionize skincare formulations, providing innovative solutions that cater to the growing demand for natural, sustainable, and high-performance cosmetics. With continued research and the development of more sustainable sourcing practices, the future of marine-based cosmeceuticals appears promising, offering consumers effective and environmentally friendly alternatives to traditional cosmetic ingredients [9,10].
Biological Targets and Mode of Action of Marine Cosmeceuticals:
Marine cosmeceuticals, derived from marine organisms such as algae, fish, mollusks, and marine microorganisms, have become increasingly popular in the skincare and cosmetic industry due to their unique bioactive compounds. These compounds possess significant therapeutic properties, including anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturizing, and skin-healing effects. The action of marine-derived ingredients in cosmeceuticals involves targeting various biological processes and molecular pathways in the skin to provide a range of skin health benefits [11-14].
1. Biological Targets in Marine Cosmeceuticals
The primary biological targets of marine cosmeceuticals are skin cells, extracellular matrix components, and the molecular pathways responsible for maintaining skin integrity, hydration, and elasticity. These biological targets include:
Figure 2: Biological Targets in Marine Cosmeceuticals
2. Mode of Action of Marine Cosmeceuticals
Marine-derived ingredients exert their effects through a variety of mechanisms, acting at both the cellular and molecular levels to promote skin health and address common skin concerns such as aging, dryness, inflammation, and damage from environmental stressors.
Figure 3: Role of Marine Cosmeceuticals
a) Anti-Aging and Collagen Synthesis
b) Antioxidant Protection and Free Radical Scavenging
c) Anti-Inflammatory Action
d) Moisturizing and Skin Barrier Protection
e) Skin Regeneration and Wound Healing
f) Skin Whitening and Hyperpigmentation
Marine-Derived Products Used in Cosmetics
1. Fucoidan
Fucoidan is a sulfated polysaccharide primarily extracted from brown algae such as Fucus vesiculosus and Undaria pinnatifida. It is renowned for its potent anti-aging properties, which stem from its ability to inhibit collagen degradation and promote skin elasticity. Additionally, fucoidan possesses strong anti-inflammatory effects, making it an excellent ingredient for soothing irritated skin and aiding in wound healing. Its incorporation in anti-aging creams and serums helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles [16].
2. Collagen Peptides
Marine collagen peptides are typically derived from fish skin, fish scales, and jellyfish. The chemical structure includes hydrolyzed collagen peptides, which are smaller in size and more bioavailable, allowing for enhanced absorption when applied topically. Collagen peptides boost skin elasticity and hydration by stimulating the body's own collagen synthesis. As a result, they are widely used in anti-aging products, where they help to reduce wrinkles and provide a firmer skin appearance [17].
3. Phlorotannins
Phlorotannins are phenolic compounds found in brown algae, particularly in species like Ecklonia cava and Laminaria. These compounds are powerful antioxidants that protect the skin from oxidative stress and UV-induced damage. Additionally, phlorotannins exhibit anti-inflammatory properties, making them effective in soothing irritated skin and reducing redness. Due to their ability to inhibit melanin synthesis, they are also utilized in skin-brightening products to address hyperpigmentation and dark spots [18].
4. Chitosan
Chitosan is derived from the exoskeletons of marine crustaceans, such as shrimp and crab. Chemically, it is a poly-D-glucosamine compound obtained through the deacetylation of chitin. Chitosan is highly valued in cosmetic formulations for its moisturizing properties, as it forms a thin, breathable film on the skin's surface that helps retain moisture. Its natural antimicrobial activity makes it suitable for acne treatment products, where it helps reduce bacterial growth and inflammation [19].
5. Astaxanthin
Astaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, is sourced from microalgae like Haematococcus pluvialis and is also present in krill oil. It is one of the most potent antioxidants known, significantly more powerful than vitamin C or vitamin E. Astaxanthin protects the skin against UV radiation and oxidative stress, which helps prevent premature aging. Its use in anti-aging serums and creams helps to reduce wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, and maintain overall skin health [20].
Figure 8: Haematococcus pluvialis
6. Carrageenan
Carrageenan is a sulfated polysaccharide extracted from red algae, including Chondrus crispus (Irish moss) and Gigartina. It is widely used in skincare products as a thickening and gelling agent. In addition to its textural benefits, carrageenan provides moisturizing effects by forming a protective barrier on the skin, preventing moisture loss. It is commonly found in moisturizers, lotions, and masks, enhancing skin hydration and smoothness [21].
7. Mycosporine-like Amino Acids (MAAs)
These compounds are naturally produced by marine fungi, algae, and cyanobacteria. MAAs like shinorine and porphyra-334 have strong UV-absorbing capabilities, making them valuable ingredients in sunscreens and other photoprotective products. They act as natural sunscreens, absorbing harmful UV radiation and protecting the skin from photoaging and oxidative damage. Their antioxidant properties also help in reducing skin inflammation caused by UV exposure [22].
8. Sea Cucumber Extract
Extracts from sea cucumbers, such as Stichopus japonicus, are rich in saponins and collagen peptides. These bioactive compounds contribute to the extract's skin rejuvenating effects. Sea cucumber extract promotes collagen synthesis, enhancing skin elasticity and reducing signs of aging. Its anti-inflammatory properties make it effective in soothing the skin, while its moisturizing benefits help to keep the skin hydrated and smooth [23].
Figure 10: Stichopus japonicus
9. Pseudopterosins
These are triterpene glycosides extracted from the Gorgonian Sea fan (Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae). Pseudopterosins are known for their potent anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties. They help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making them valuable in formulations aimed at sensitive skin. These compounds are also used in after-sun products and soothing creams to alleviate skin discomfort caused by UV exposure [24].
Figure 11: Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae
10. Ulvans
Ulvans are sulfated polysaccharides derived from green algae, particularly Ulva lactuca. They are known for their strong hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties. Ulvans enhance skin barrier function by forming a protective layer that retains moisture and soothes irritated skin. They are often included in moisturizing serums and lotions to provide long-lasting hydration and to reduce skin sensitivity [25].
11. Squalene
Squalene is a natural hydrocarbon found in shark liver oil and increasingly sourced from plant-based alternatives like microalgae. It is an emollient that mimics the skin's natural sebum, making it an excellent moisturizer. Squalene helps to improve skin hydration, reduce dryness, and enhance skin elasticity. It is a common ingredient in facial oils, moisturizers, and serums due to its ability to penetrate the skin easily and provide deep hydration [26].
12. Beta-Glucans
Derived from marine yeast species like Saccharomyces cerevisiae, beta-glucans are polysaccharides that possess immunomodulatory and hydrating properties. In cosmetics, they help enhance the skin's moisture levels by forming a protective barrier on the skin's surface. Beta-glucans also have anti-inflammatory effects, making them beneficial for sensitive or irritated skin. They are widely used in anti-aging products due to their ability to reduce fine lines and wrinkles by improving skin hydration [27,28].
Figure 13: Saccharomyces cerevisiae
13. Glycosaminoglycans
These are naturally occurring polysaccharides found in the connective tissue of marine organisms, including shellfish. Glycosaminoglycans, such as chondroitin sulfate, help in maintaining skin hydration and elasticity. In cosmetics, they are used for their ability to bind water and retain moisture in the skin, making them effective in anti-aging formulations [29].
14. Marine Lipids
Marine lipids, such as omega-3 fatty acids from fish oil and microalgae, are highly valued in skincare for their anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties. These fatty acids help to strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and provide deep hydration. They are commonly incorporated into creams, serums, and balms aimed at improving skin hydration and reducing redness or irritation [30].
Applications of Marine-Derived Products in Cosmeceuticals
The growing interest in natural, sustainable ingredients in the cosmetics industry has led to an increasing use of marine-derived products for skincare. Marine organisms, including algae, fish, shellfish, and microorganisms, offer unique bioactive compounds that provide a wide range of benefits for skin health. These compounds are often incorporated into cosmeceuticals for their anti-aging, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, skin-regenerating, and antioxidant properties. Below, we discuss the primary applications of marine-derived products in cosmeceuticals.
1. Anti-Aging and Skin Rejuvenation
Marine-derived ingredients are highly valued for their anti-aging properties, particularly in addressing the visible signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of skin elasticity. Marine collagen, sourced from fish skin, scales, and jellyfish, is one of the most popular ingredients in anti-aging formulations. Collagen helps maintain skin elasticity, structure, and hydration. Marine collagen peptides, which are smaller and more bioavailable, effectively stimulate collagen production in the skin, resulting in firmer and smoother skin. These peptides are frequently found in serums, creams, and masks designed for age prevention and skin rejuvenation.
Astaxanthin, a potent antioxidant extracted from microalgae, is another key ingredient used in anti-aging products. It offers superior protection against free radicals and oxidative stress, which are major contributors to skin aging. Astaxanthin is incorporated into various anti-aging formulations to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and prevent premature aging.
Fucoidan, a polysaccharide found in brown algae, is also effective in stimulating collagen production and promoting skin regeneration, making it a common ingredient in anti-aging creams. It works by enhancing skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles over time.
2. Skin Hydration and Moisturization
Proper skin hydration is essential for maintaining healthy, plump skin, and several marine-derived ingredients are known for their exceptional moisturizing properties. Squalene, a lipid derived from shark liver or plant-based sources like olive oil, is widely used in moisturizers, facial oils, and serums. It mimics the skin's natural oils, effectively replenishing moisture and enhancing the skin's barrier function, which prevents moisture loss.
Chitosan, a polysaccharide extracted from the shells of marine crustaceans like shrimp and crabs, forms a thin protective layer on the skin, helping to lock in moisture and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This makes it an ideal ingredient for products aimed at dry and sensitive skin, providing long-lasting hydration.
Carrageenan, derived from red algae, is another well-known hydrating agent. It helps to retain moisture in the skin, making it a valuable addition to creams, lotions, and face masks. Its ability to form a gel-like consistency aids in the texture and stability of skincare formulations while enhancing hydration.
3. UV Protection and Sun Defense
Marine-derived products also offer significant benefits in protecting the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Mycosporine-like Amino Acids (MAAs), found in marine fungi and algae, are natural UV-absorbing compounds that protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV exposure. MAAs such as shinorine and porphyra-334 act as natural sunscreens by absorbing UV light and preventing skin damage. They are increasingly used in sunscreen formulations to offer broad-spectrum protection from UV rays, reducing the risk of sunburn and photoaging.
Phlorotannins, extracted from brown algae, also possess UV-protective properties. These compounds help to prevent oxidative stress caused by UV exposure, making them a valuable addition to sun care products. Phlorotannins protect against both UVA and UVB radiation, which can otherwise lead to skin damage, pigmentation, and aging.
4. Skin Brightening and Hyperpigmentation Control
Marine-derived ingredients are effective in treating skin discoloration, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. Phlorotannins from brown algae can inhibit melanin production, helping to lighten skin and reduce dark spots, making them particularly useful in products targeting pigmentation disorders such as age spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Spirulina, a blue-green algae, is rich in vitamins, minerals, and amino acids that nourish the skin and provide a brightening effect. Its antioxidant properties help reduce oxidative stress and promote an even skin tone, making it an ideal ingredient in brightening masks, serums, and creams.
Ulvans, polysaccharides derived from green algae, also help to reduce pigmentation and brighten the skin. These compounds are known for their ability to promote even skin tone by reducing melanin production, which is particularly beneficial for individuals with dark spots or uneven skin color.
5. Skin Healing and Regeneration
Marine-derived products are highly effective in accelerating skin healing and regeneration. Sea cucumber extract, which contains collagen peptides and saponins, promotes the synthesis of collagen and other skin proteins, improving skin elasticity and aiding in the healing process. Sea cucumber extract is often used in products designed for damaged or sensitive skin, as it accelerates skin repair and reduces scarring.
Chitosan, known for its antimicrobial and wound-healing properties, is commonly included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin. It helps in repairing the skin barrier, reducing inflammation, and promoting skin regeneration, which is particularly beneficial for post-procedure care, post-acne scars, and sunburned skin.
6. Anti-Inflammatory and Soothing Effects
Many marine-derived ingredients offer powerful anti-inflammatory effects, making them ideal for soothing irritated or inflamed skin. Triterpenoid saponins, derived from marine plants such as Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae, have demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory effects. These compounds help calm redness, swelling, and irritation, making them suitable for formulations targeting sensitive or inflamed skin conditions such as rosacea, eczema, or post-sunburn.
Seaweed extracts, including red algae, are known for their soothing properties. Rich in minerals, amino acids, and vitamins, seaweed extracts help reduce skin irritation, calm inflammation, and maintain a healthy moisture balance. They are commonly found in calming creams, gels, and face masks.
7. Acne Treatment and Antimicrobial Properties
Marine-derived compounds are also effective in managing acne and preventing the growth of acne-causing bacteria. Chitosan has natural antimicrobial properties, which help to reduce the presence of acne-causing bacteria without irritating the skin. This makes it an excellent addition to acne treatment products, where it acts to reduce breakouts while simultaneously hydrating the skin.
Marine algae such as Laminaria digitata and Ecklonia cava have been shown to possess antimicrobial effects, making them effective in treating acne and preventing further outbreaks. Their antibacterial properties help maintain clear skin by reducing the growth of acne-causing bacteria, making these algae ideal for use in acne creams, serums, and spot treatments [31-33].
Table 1: Studies on Marine-Derived Products for Cosmeceuticals
No. |
Marine Source |
Active Compound |
Cosmeceutical Application |
Reference |
1 |
Algae (Brown, Red) |
Fucoidan, Astaxanthin |
Anti-aging, Anti-inflammatory |
[34] |
2 |
Microalgae (Spirulina) |
Phycocyanin, Carotenoids |
Skin brightening, Antioxidant |
[35] |
3 |
Marine Fish (Salmon) |
Collagen peptides |
Wrinkle reduction, Skin elasticity |
[36] |
4 |
Seaweed (Laminaria) |
Polysaccharides |
Moisturizing, UV protection |
[37] |
5 |
Marine Sponges |
Avarol |
Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle |
[38] |
6 |
Sea Cucumbers |
Collagen, Saponins |
Wound healing, Anti-inflammatory |
[39] |
7 |
Red Algae |
Phlorotannins |
Anti-inflammatory, Anti-aging |
[40] |
8 |
Marine Bacteria |
Exopolysaccharides |
Skin barrier enhancement |
[41] |
9 |
Marine Fungi |
Mycosporine-like amino acids |
UV protection, Antioxidant |
[42] |
10 |
Green Algae (Ulva) |
Ulvans |
Skin hydration, Anti-pigmentation |
[43] |
11 |
Sea Urchins |
Echinochrome |
Antioxidant, Skin whitening |
[44] |
12 |
Marine Yeast |
Beta-glucans |
Anti-aging, Moisturizing |
[45] |
13 |
Jellyfish |
Collagen |
Skin elasticity, Moisturizing |
[46] |
14 |
Marine Crustaceans |
Chitosan |
Moisturizer, Antimicrobial |
[47] |
15 |
Sea Anemones |
Peptides |
Anti-inflammatory, Anti-aging |
[48] |
16 |
Prawn Shells |
Chitosan, Carotenoids |
Skin repair, Antioxidant |
[49] |
17 |
Seaweed (Fucus) |
Fucoidan |
Anti-pigmentation, Anti-inflammatory |
[50] |
18 |
Marine Cyanobacteria |
Scytonemin |
UV protection, Antioxidant |
[51] |
19 |
Microalgae (Chlorella) |
Proteins, Lipids |
Anti-inflammatory, Moisturizing |
[52] |
20 |
Marine Coral |
Sclerotin |
Anti-inflammatory, Skin regeneration |
[53] |
21 |
Sea Star |
Saponins |
Anti-aging, Wound healing |
[54] |
22 |
Marine Snails |
Mucopolysaccharides |
Skin hydration, Wound healing |
[55] |
23 |
Marine Clams |
Glycosaminoglycans |
Anti-inflammatory, Anti-aging |
[56] |
24 |
Marine Mollusks |
Tyrosinase inhibitors |
Skin whitening, Anti-pigmentation |
[57] |
25 |
Seaweed (Sargassum) |
Flavonoids, Tannins |
Anti-inflammatory, UV protection |
[58] |
26 |
Marine Dinoflagellates |
Polyunsaturated fatty acids |
Skin nourishment, Anti-aging |
[59] |
27 |
Marine Sponges |
Manzamines |
Antioxidant, Anti-aging |
[60] |
28 |
Sea Pens |
Bioactive peptides |
Anti-wrinkle, Skin tightening |
[61] |
29 |
Octopus |
Collagen |
Wound healing, Skin elasticity |
[62] |
30 |
Marine Echinoids |
Glycosaminoglycans |
Anti-aging, Skin hydration |
[63] |
31 |
Sea Fan (Gorgonian) |
Pseudopterosins |
Anti-inflammatory, Skin soothing |
[64] |
32 |
Marine Algae (Nannochloropsis) |
EPA, DHA |
Anti-inflammatory, Skin barrier repair |
[65] |
33 |
Squid |
Chitosan derivatives |
Moisturizing, Skin repair |
[66] |
34 |
Sea Grapes (Caulerpa) |
Sulfated polysaccharides |
Moisturizing, Anti-pigmentation |
[67] |
35 |
Marine Worms |
Hydrolysates |
Anti-aging, Moisturizing |
[68] |
CONCLUSION
Marine-derived products are indispensable in the cosmeceutical industry due to their wide range of beneficial properties, including anti-aging, hydration, UV protection, skin brightening, healing, and anti-inflammatory effects. The unique bioactive compounds found in marine organisms offer effective, sustainable, and eco-friendly alternatives to traditional synthetic ingredients. As the understanding of marine biodiversity deepens, we can expect even more innovative and highly effective marine-derived ingredients to be incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations, further advancing skincare science. The integration of these natural, powerful compounds will continue to shape the future of skincare, providing consumers with advanced, effective, and environmentally conscious solutions for maintaining healthy, youthful skin.
REFERENCE
Kalyani A. Khajure, Pooja B. Rasal, Marine-Derived Products for Cosmeceuticals: A Comprehensive Review, Int. J. Sci. R. Tech., 2024, 1 (11), 1-12. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.14092144